In a split second the lip of the wave heaved and collapsed as it doubled in size and dropped on my shoulders - the sheer force drove my head into the sand.
The impact was bone crunching, as the weight of literally tons of water collapsed on me, knocking me unconscious. Opening my eyes, all I could see was sand, all around me, churned up by the swell. It was hard to see, but a few rays of sunlight were breaking through the sand-filled water. Blood was swirling in front of my face and I still couldn’t ...(more)